Showing posts with label health. Show all posts
Showing posts with label health. Show all posts

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Learn the Lingo of Expiration Dates

The actual term "Expiration Date" refers to the last date a food should be eaten or used. Last means last -- proceed at your own risk.

More commonly spotted terms are:
  • "Sell by" date. The labeling "sell by" tells the store how long to display the product for sale. You should buy the product before the date expires. This is basically a guide for the retailer, so the store knows when to pull the item. This is not mandatory, so reach in back and get the freshest. The issue is quality of the item (freshness, taste, and consistency) rather than whether it is on the verge of spoiling. Paul VanLandingham, EdD, a senior faculty member at the Center for Food and Beverage Management of Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., tells WebMD the "sell by" date is the last day the item is at its highest level of quality, but it will still be edible for some time after.
  • "Best if used by (or before)" date. This refers strictly to quality, not safety. This date is recommended for best flavor or quality. It is not a purchase or safety date. Sour cream, for instance, is already sour, but can have a zippier, fresh taste when freshly sour (if that's not an oxymoron!)
  • "Born on" date. This is the date of manufacture and has been resurrected recently to date beer. Beer can go sub-par after three months. "It is affected by sun," VanLandingham says. The light can reactivate microorganisms in the beer. That's why you have to be especially careful with beer in clear bottles, as opposed to brown or green.
  • "Guaranteed fresh" date. This usually refers to bakery items. They will still be edible after the date, but will not be at peak freshness.
  • "Use by" date. This is the last date recommended for the use of the product while at peak quality. The date has been determined by the manufacturer of the product.
  • "Pack" date. You will find this one on canned or packaged goods, as a rule, but it's tricky. In fact, it may be in code. It can be month-day-year-MMDDYY. Or the manufacturer could revert to the Julian calendar. January would then be 001-0031 and December 334-365. It gets even weirder than that.

When Do Food and Stuff Expire?


With help from experts and product manufacturers, Real Simple (http://www.realsimple.com/) has compiled a guide to expiration dates. These dates are offered as a rough guideline. The shelf lives of most products depend upon how you treat them. Edibles, unless otherwise indicated, should be stored in a cool, dry place. (With any food, of course, use common sense.) Household cleaners also do best in a dry place with a stable temperature. After the dates shown, beauty and cleaning products are probably still safe but may be less effective.

Edibles

Beverages 

Beer
Unopened: Starts to lose flavor after 110 days.
It’s best to store bottles in boxes, and then in dark place.
Stronger alcohol and higher levels of hops might extend the shelf life of a beer.
One example is Michelob Craft Specialty beers, which are often at their peak with 180 days.
(Source: Budweiser support)

Coffee, canned ground
Unopened: 2 years
Opened: 1 month refrigerated

Coffee, gourmet
Beans: 3 weeks in paper bag, longer in vacuum-seal bag (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)
Ground: 1 week in sealed container

Coffee, instant
Unopened: Up to 2 years
Opened: Up to 1 month

Diet soda (and soft drinks in plastic bottles)
Unopened: 3 months from "best by" date.
Opened: Doesn't spoil, but taste is affected.

Juice, bottled (apple or cranberry)
Unopened: 8 months from production date
Opened: 7 to 10 days

Soda, regular
Unopened: In cans or glass bottles, 9 months from "best by" date
Opened: Doesn't spoil, but taste is affected

Tea bags (Lipton)
Use within 2 years of opening the package

Wine (red, white)
Unopened: 3 years from vintage date; 20 to 100 years for fine wines
Opened: 1 week refrigerated and corked

Carbs and staples

Dried pasta
12 months

Rice, white
2 years from date on box or date of purchase

Meals

Frozen dinners
Unopened: 12 to 18 months

Frozen vegetables
Unopened: 18 to 24 months
Opened: 1 month

Olive oil
2 years from manufacture date (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Salad dressing, bottled
Unopened: 12 months after "best by" date
Opened: 9 months refrigerated

Tuna, canned
Unopened: 1 year from purchase date
Opened: 3 to 4 days, not stored in can

Condiments and spreads

Ketchup
Unopened: 1 year (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)
Opened or used: 4 to 6 months (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Mayonnaise
Unopened: Indefinitely
Opened: 2 to 3 months from “purchase by” date (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Mustard
2 years (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Peanut butter, natural
9 months

Peanut butter, processed (Jif)
Unopened: 2 years
Opened: 6 months; refrigerate after 3 months

Steak sauce
33 months (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Tabasco
5 years, stored in a cool, dry place

Worcestershire sauce
Unopened: 5 to 10 years (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)
Opened: 2 years

Soy sauce, bottled
Unopened: 2 years
Opened: 3 months (After this time, color or flavor may be affected, but product is still generally safe to consume.)

Vinegar
42 months

Preserves and jars

Maraschino cherries
Unopened: 3 to 4 years
Opened: 2 weeks at room temperature; 6 months refrigerated

Olives, jarred (green with pimento)
Unopened: 3 years
Opened: 3 months

Pickles
Unopened: 18 months
Opened: No conclusive data. Discard if slippery or excessively soft.

Snacks

Peanuts
Unopened: 1 to 2 years unless frozen or refrigerated
Opened: 1 to 2 weeks in airtight container

Protein bars (Power Bars)
Unopened: 10 to 12 months. Check "best by" date on the package.

Sweets

Brown sugar
Indefinite shelf life, stored in a moisture proof container in a cool, dry place.

Chocolate (Hershey bar)
1 year from production date

Honey
Indefinite shelf life. In fact, the honey they found in the Egyptian pyramids was still good. I don't know who lost the bet to try out honey that's been with a mummy four thousands of years.

Maple syrup, real or imitation
1 year

Marshmallows
Unopened: 40 weeks
Opened: 3 months

Household Products

Air freshener, aerosol
2 years

Antifreeze, premixed
1 to 5 years

Antifreeze, concentrate
Indefinite

Batteries, alkaline
7 years

Batteries, lithium
10 years

Bleach
3 to 6 months

Dish detergent, liquid or powdered
1 year

Fire extinguisher, rechargeable
Service or replace every 6 years

Fire extinguisher, non-rechargeable
12 years

Laundry detergent, liquid or powdered
Unopened: 9 months to 1 year
Opened: 6 months

Metal polish (silver, copper, brass)
At least 3 years

Miracle Gro, liquid
Opened: 3 to 8 years

Miracle Gro, liquid, water-soluble
Indefinite

Motor oil
Unopened: 2 to 5 years
Opened: 3 months

Mr. Clean
2 years

Paint
Unopened: Up to 10 years
Opened: 2 to 5 years

Spray paint
2 to 3 years

Windex
2 years

Wood polish (Pledge)
2 years

Beauty Products

All dates are from the manufacture date, which is either displayed on the packaging or can be obtained by calling the manufacturer's customer-service number.

Bar soap
18 months to 3 years

Bath gel, body wash
3 years

Bath oil
1 year

Body bleaches and depilatories
Unopened: 2 years
Used: 6 months

Body lotion
3 years

Conditioner
2 to 3 years

Deodorant
Unopened: 2 years
Used: 1 to 2 years
For antiperspirants, see expiration date

Eye cream
Unopened: 3 years
Used: 1 year

Face lotion
With SPF, see expiration date. All others, at least 3 years

Foundation, oil-based
2 years

Foundation, water-based
3 years

Hair gel
2 to 3 years

Hair spray
2 to 3 years

Lip balm
Unopened: 5 years
Used: 1 to 5 years

Lipstick
2 years

Mascara
Unopened: 2 years
Used: 3 to 4 months

Mouthwash
Three years from manufacture date

Nail polish
1 year

Nail-polish remover
Lasts indefinitely

Perfume
1 to 2 years

Rubbing alcohol
At least 3 years

Shampoo
2 to 3 years

Shaving cream
2 years or more

Tooth-whitening strips
13 months

Wash'n Dri moist wipes
Unopened: 2 years
Opened: Good until dried out

Beauty Supplies Expiration Dates

Anti-aging and acne treatment
Three months to a year. Antioxidants are easily oxidized, so be on the lookout for any changes in color.

Bar soap
Up to three years.

Bath oil
One year.

Blush/Bronzer
18 months after first use

Body lotion
Two to three years, particularly if it’s in a pump container.

Concealer
12 months after first use

Creme eye shadow
6 months after first use

Creme blush
12 months after first use

Deodorant
Up to two years.

Eye and lip pencils
Three to five years. Sharpen them before each use as a way to preserve them and keep them clean.

Facial Moisturizer
12 months after first use

Foundation
About two years. Most bottles are designed to last that long. And if you don’t use it, chances are you didn’t love it to begin with.

Hairstyling products
Three to five years. Most are alcohol-based, which helps preserve the formula.

Lipstick and lip gloss
18 months after first use

Liquid eyeliner
3 months after first use

Liquid Foundation
6 months after first use

Mascara and liquid eyeliner
Three to four months. Make sure you’re diligent about replacing these items to prevent contamination and infections.

Nail polish
18 months after first use

Perfume
About two years. To get more mileage out of a perfume, resist the temptation to display a pretty bottle on your vanity. Instead, stash it away in a cool, dark place.

Shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel
About three years.

Shaving cream
About two years.

Skin care products
6 months after first use

Sunscreen
6 months after first use.

See Also: Learn the Lingo of Expiration Dates

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Finding harmful ingredients in cosmetic products

You can find the ingredients on cosmetic products (shampoos, soap, sunscreen) and search for carcinogenic (known or suspected) or harmful ingredients on https://www.safecosmeticsact.org/search.

It's run by the California Department of Public Health, which gives public access to their database. By law (passed in 2005), manufacturers that sell cosmetic products in the state must report the ingredients. Yay, California!

The user experience is not great, but at least the information is public. Hopefully, someone with more talent for designing web and mobile apps would create a better way to get these data.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Worst time to go to the hospital

If you live in the US, the worst time to go to the hospital for treatment and surgery is July, especially the first week. That's when hospitals get new residents and experienced ones get promoted. Lots of confusion around this time. As a result, medical errors go up.

Try to stay healthy until September at least ;).

Monday, March 28, 2011

Creating a productive work environment.

Notes taken by Ben on the ergonomics tech talk presented by Dr. Ashkan Jalili, CEO and owner of Santa Monica Wellness Group.  
    • You should be able to put hand on top of monitor without affecting posture
    • ergotron.com: gives you ideal workspace measurements based on your height/weight
    • Full-spectrum florescent light causes much less fatigue than normal florescent light
    • Air conditioning: cool air blowing directly on you increases muscle tension
    • Noise can increase stress and interfere with concentration without you noticing
    • Breathing matters; 40% of fuel for brain is oxygen--much more important than glucose--but we get too much sugar due to cravings caused by cortisol
    • His office in Santa Monica does 1.5 hour neurological exam to check right vs. left brain function, etc

    Sunday, March 20, 2011

    Keeping your indoor air clean with houseplants

    From the Wall Street Journal

    A growing body of global research is showing plants can reduce dust particles and contaminants, such as formaldehyde and benzene, that come from cigarette smoke, paint, furniture, building materials and other sources.

    Six or more plants in a 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot house could achieve noteworthy contaminant reductions.

    The hardest working filtering plants include:
    • English Ivy
    • Mother-in-Law's Tongue
    • Weeping Fig
    • Peace Lily
    • Devil's Ivy
    • Flamingo Flower
    • Janet Craig
    • Asparagus Fern

    A superhero scrubs the air: the mighty houseplant

    Reprinted form Wall Street Journal.

    The humble houseplant is on the attack. Building on NASA experiments for air purification in space, scientists are pinpointing plant species—from the peace lily to the asparagus fern—that are particularly skillful at cleaning indoor air of pollutants that can cause a range of health problems.

    A growing body of research suggests the humble houseplant boasts significant powers to clean the air in homes and other buildings of common toxins such as formaldehyde, ammonia & benzene. Wendy Bounds explains.

    A growing body of global research is showing plants can reduce dust particles and contaminants, such as formaldehyde and benzene, that come from cigarette smoke, paint, furniture, building materials and other sources. Big growers such as Costa Farms, based in Goulds, Fla., and retailers Lowe's and Home Depot now sell plants with tags promoting their air-cleaning abilities.

    "The advantage of plants is you can sometimes solve your problem with $100 of plants or propagate your own," says Stanley J. Kays, a horticulture professor at the University of Georgia, which is spearheading plant research with scientists in South Korea. In addition to studying existing plants, researchers there are trying to see if certain species could be bred to create super-efficient air cleaners.

    Interest in plants as air purifiers—what's called "phytoremediation"—comes amid mounting concerns about the quality of indoor air. People spend more than 90% of their time inside, where levels of a dozen common organic pollutants can be two to five times higher than outside, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Associated health problems range from headaches and asthma to respiratory diseases and cancer. The agency says it is particularly concerned about air quality in homes that have taken steps to be more energy-efficient by adding insulation and other weatherization techniques.

    That said, plants aren't yet recognized as a mainstream air-filtration tool. The EPA says "there is currently no evidence … that a reasonable number of houseplants can remove significant quantities of pollutants in homes and offices." The U.S. Green Building Council, which certifies buildings based on environmental standards, says while "using plants to help clean air is a great strategy…we've had difficulty quantifying the results."

    That could be changing. Studies conducted over the past five years by the University of Technology, Sydney found that small groups of the Janet Craig and Sweet Chico plants placed in offices with high airborne concentrations of volatile organic compounds consistently reduced total VOC levels by up to 75%. Reductions to negligible levels were maintained over the course of five- to 12-week periods studied. "Potted plants can provide an efficient, self-regulating, low-cost, sustainable bioremediation system for indoor air pollution," researchers concluded.

    In another study at Washington State University, dust was reduced as much as 20% when a number of plants were placed around the perimeter of computer lab and small office for one week.

    Margaret Burchett, a professor who led the Sydney studies, estimates that six or more plants in a 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot house could achieve noteworthy contaminant reductions. At work, "if you have a couple of nice plants sitting on your desk, it will help purify the air you breathe," says Bill Wolverton, author of the new book "Plants: Why You Can't Live Without Them," and one of the NASA scientists who studied plants.

    Indoor-air pollutants come in two primary forms: particle pollution, such as dust, pollen, animal dander and smoke, and gaseous pollutants such as VOCs that are emitted from sources such as building materials, dry-cleaned clothing and aerosol sprays.

    Plants clean the air, researchers say, primarily by absorbing pollution through small leaf pores called stomata, and via microorganisms living in the potting soil or medium that metabolize contaminants. Scientists believe plants can begin removing pollution the moment they're placed in a room and can be particularly useful in spaces where there's little outside ventilation.

    Pinpointing specific air quality problems can be tricky. Do-it-yourself kits and environmental companies can conduct air-quality tests at consumers' homes. But interpretation of the results can be confusing because there's no universal national standard for acceptable levels of many VOCs, according to the EPA.

    As for remedies, ventilation often works best, but not every climate is suitable for open windows and doors. Mechanical ventilation units that remove stale air from a home and provide fresh outdoor air can cost $600 to upwards of $2,500, not including installation. Indoor air-cleaning devices using HEPA and activated carbon or ultraviolet-light technology have some limitations and may require filter changes.

    That's why researchers see opportunity for indoor plants, which are inexpensive and relatively easy to find and maintain. In 2009, UGA scientists identified five "super ornamentals"—plants that showed high rates of contaminant removal when exposed in gas-tight glass jars to common household VOCs, such as benzene (present in cigarette smoke) and toluene (emitted from paints and varnishes). They are: the purple waffle plant, English ivy, asparagus fern, purple heart plant, variegated wax plant.

    Kendrick Brinson/LUCEO for The Wall Street Journal"
    At the University of Georgia's campus in Griffin, Ga., professors Bodie Pennisi, right, and Mussie Habteselassie, look at a microorganism in the soil of an asparagus fern that metabolizes benzene.

    Kendrick Brinson/LUCEO for The Wall Street Journal"
    Plants are studied in a lab at the university.

    UGA's Dr. Kays and his colleagues aim to broaden their findings by developing a simple test kit homeowners can use to check for VOCs, as well as an expanded list of plants and their associated pollution-fighting abilities. The university also sees a potential market for enhanced potting soil and other media.

    "I envision this research helping producers enrich plants' soil with microorganisms that are optimized to metabolize, say, five bad VOCs," says Bodie Pennisi, a UGA associate professor.

    Plants were sidelined as minimalist architecture prevailed in recent years, says Mike Lewis, president of the not-for-profit Green Plants for Green Buildings advocacy group. "Now when you talk to architects and designers, they want plants back."

    When designing the new Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital in Michigan, the hospital's CEO Gerard van Grinsven says he placed $150,000 of live plants in the atria of the facility. "The plants are doing what they are supposed to do—produce oxygen and filtering all these bad elements from our environment," Mr. van Grinsven says.

    International plant grower Costa Farms LLC, has spent more than $1 million in the past two years on its "O2 for You" marketing campaign touting plants' air-purifying abilities. In its Michigan store, Planterra Corp. touts plants as "low-maintenance air cleaners."

    Dr. Wolverton, who continued his plant research after leaving NASA, has helped develop a $199 planter dubbed the "Plant Air Purifier," which uses an electric fan and activated carbon in a ceramic growing medium (no soil) to filter and trap pollutants around plants' roots more efficiently so microbes can metabolize them. It goes on sale in April. A similar product, the Andrea Air Filter, was co-developed by a Harvard University professor and has sold 8,000 units since its launch two years ago.

    Norman Ankers, a 54-year-old trial lawyer in Beverly Hills, Mich., says he and his wife Janet have filled their 5,000-square-foot home with plants, such as ferns and orchids. "We don't pretend to understand the complex chemistry of it all," Mr. Ankers says. "But having something that's a cleaning agent or filter is an extra benefit."

    Write to Gwendolyn Bounds at wendy.bounds@wsj.com

    Sunday, January 30, 2011

    Making your own household cleaners

    From Consumer Reports:

    Homemade household cleaners: best recipes 1/11

    With some simple, reliable recipes and clean, empty containers, you can make your own less-toxic cleaners right at home using familiar household ingredients. The following is a list of basic ingredients, along with their common cleaning uses.

    Basic cleaning ingredients

    Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). This mild alkali powder can be used for a variety of household cleaning purposes, such as removing stains from tile, glass, oven doors, and china; cleaning the inside of refrigerators; helping to absorb odors; and removing baked-on food from pans. It also acts as a stain remover for fruit juices and other mild acids.

    Borax. A powder or crystalline salt sold in most grocery stores, borax is a water softener and sanitizer. It makes an excellent freshener when added to laundry and is an all-around deodorizer.

    Castile soap. A mild soap available in liquid or bar form that can be used for general-purpose cleaning. It was once made from olive oil, but now may include other vegetable oils as well.

    Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate). This common baking ingredient is a mild acid that can be used as a sink and bathtub stain remover. It can also be used to remove spots from aluminum cookware.

    Hydrogen peroxide. A mild alternative to chlorine bleach that can be used for stain removal and mild bleaching and killing germs. Available in drug stores and supermarkets.

    Lemon juice. This familiar ingredient can be used to lighten stains and cut grease. It can also be used to remove tarnish can be used on brass, copper, bronze and aluminum (not to be used on silver).

    Washing soda (carbonate of soda). A stronger alternative to baking soda, washing soda can be used as a water softener in conjunction with laundry detergents (gloves are recommended as it may irritate skin; not to be used with silks, woolens or vinyl).

    White vinegar. Good for a variety of household cleaning tasks, vinegar may be used to help kill germs and deodorize, remove some carpet stains, and clean coffeemakers, chrome, cookware, and countertops. It can also be used to unclog drains. Note that while white vinegar has a slight scent while wet, when dry, it leaves no odor. However, don’t use it on acetate fabrics, such as in some tablecloths, because it can dissolve the fibers.

    Homemade recipes

    You can make your own cleaners from the ingredients listed above. The recipes below are adapted from Recipes for Safer Cleaners, published by the nonprofit group, Healthy Child Healthy World. (Please note that Consumer Reports has not tested these recipes.)

    Kitchen:

    Countertops. For a "soft scrub," mix baking soda and liquid soap until you get a consistency you like. The amounts don’t have to be perfect. Make only as much as you need, as it dries up quickly.

    Ovens. To clean extra-greasy ovens, mix together 1 cup baking soda and 1/4 cup of washing soda, then add enough water to make a paste; apply the paste to oven surfaces and let soak overnight. The next morning, lift off soda mixture and grime; rinse surfaces well (gloves are recommended as washing soda may irritate skin).

    Microwave ovens. These can be cleaned with a paste made from 3 to 4 tablespoons of baking soda mixed with water. Scrub on with a sponge and rinse.

    Cutting boards. Sanitize them by spraying with vinegar and then with 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Keep the liquids in separate spray bottles and use them one at a time. It doesn’t matter which one you use first, but both together are much more effective than either one alone.

    Bathrooms:

    Tub and tile cleaner. Mix 1 2/3 cup baking soda, 1/2 cup liquid soap, and 1/2 cup water. Then, as the last step, add 2 tablespoons vinegar (if you add the vinegar too early it will react with the baking soda). Immediately apply, wipe, and scrub.

    A good all-purpose sanitizer. 2 teaspoons borax, 4 tablespoons vinegar, and 3 to 4 cups hot water in a spray bottle. For extra cleaning power, add 1/4 teaspoon liquid soap to the mixture.

    Toilet bowl. Pour 1 cup of borax into the toilet before going to bed. In the morning, scrub and flush. For an extra-strength cleaner, add 1/4 cup vinegar to the borax.

    Drains. Prevent clogged drains by using hair and food traps. To de-grease and sweeten sink and tub drains, pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down drain, followed by 1 cup vinegar; let bubble for 15 minutes; rinse with hot water. You might have to repeat the procedure more than once or leave the baking soda and vinegar to “cook” overnight.

    Livingroom:

    General dusting. Best done with a damp cloth: Dry dusting simply stirs up dust and moves it around.

    Furniture polish. Mix olive oil and vinegar in a one-to-one ratio and polish with a soft cloth. Or look in a health-food store for food-grade linseed oil, often called omega-3 or flaxseed oil, rather than the type found in hardware stores to finish furniture. Linseed oil sold for furniture use often contains dangerous petroleum distillates to speed evaporation.

    Windows. Put 3 tablespoons vinegar per 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Some recommend using half vinegar and half water. For extra-dirty windows try this: 1/2 teaspoon liquid soap, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 2 cups of water. Shake well. The best way to get streak-free windows--use newspaper instead of paper towels to wipe them.

    Metal polish:

    Brass, copper, bronze and aluminum. To remove tarnish, rub metal with sliced lemons. For tough jobs, sprinkle baking soda on the lemon, then rub.

    Sterling silver. Put a sheet of aluminum foil into a plastic or glass bowl. Sprinkle the foil with salt and baking soda, then fill the bowl with warm water. Soak your silver in the bowl, and the tarnish will migrate to the aluminum foil. Rinse and dry the silver, then buff it with a soft cloth.

    Air freshener:

    •A simple recipe of 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon vinegar (or lemon juice), and 2 cups hot water in a spray bottle can be sprayed in the air to remove odors.

    Floors and carpets:

    Linoleum. For extra grease-cutting, try this formula: 1/4 cup washing soda with 1 tablespoon of liquid soap, 1/4 cup vinegar, and 2 gallons hot water. Put the washing soda in the bucket first and add the liquid ingredients; that way the soda won’t splash out. Caution: Do not use this formula on waxed floors.

    Sanitize floors. Add 2 gallons of hot water to 1/2 cup of borax. Put the borax in the bucket first, then add water slowly to avoid splashing.

    Wood floors. Add 1 cup of vinegar per pail of hot water.

    Carpeting and rugs. To soak up and eliminate odors, sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet and let it stand for 15 to 30 minutes before vacuuming.

    Laundry:

    Laundry brightener. Add 1/2 cup of strained lemon juice during the rinse cycle.

    Fabric rinse. Add 1/4 cup of white vinegar during the washing machine’s rinse cycle to remove detergent completely from clothes, eliminating that scratchy feel. (Note: This will not leave your clothes smelling like vinegar.)

    Detergent booster. To reduce the amount of laundry detergent you need to use (especially if you have hard water), add baking soda or washing soda. These minerals soften the water, which increases the detergent’s power. For liquid detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda at the beginning of the wash. For powdered detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda during the rinse cycle.

    Bleach. Use hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine bleach.

    Dry cleaning. Many delicate "dry clean only" items can be washed at home by hand. In general, it’s best to use cool water and a mild liquid soap. Squeeze or wring gently and lay flat to dry.

    Mold:

    •Use a stiff brush, a non-ammonia detergent, and hot water to scrub mold off nonporous surfaces. Use a stiff-bristle toothbrush to get between tiles. You can also use a paste of baking soda and water. Don’t rinse. And remember to wear gloves and a protective mask, since mold spores can be inhaled.

    Friday, January 7, 2011

    Metabolic rates

    Image was borrowed
    Your "metabolism" (the rate at which you burn calories) has three components:
    • Basal metabolic rate (BMR) - energy you need to live. Breathing, pumping blood, maintaining body temperature. It uses up about 50-60% of calories.
    • Thermic effect of food (TEF) - energy you use around food. Eating, digesting, and storing. 10-15%
    • Activity-related energy expenditure. All the getting around and exercising. Rest of the stuff. 
    If you want to lose weight, easiest to fiddle with the third one. Mighty hard to maintain weight loss by fudging the first two, which are determined by various factors, such as genes, gender, body composition, activities, and so on. As you lose weight, your BMR goes down as well. As you eat less, so does the TEF. So it gets harder and harder to lose weight.

    Fidgeters have higher BMR, so they tend to be leaner. But fidgeting is genetically determined, so if you weren't born one, it's hard to pick up the "habit" (it's really unconscious movement, so it's not like the fidgeter can choose to start fidgeting).


    Thursday, November 25, 2010

    How many calories are you burning?

    Want to know how many calories you are burning for your sports or activities? You can check out a calorie counter.

    It's not completely accurate, because it doesn't account for various things like your body composition (how much of you is made up of muscle and bones and how much of you is made up of stuff that jiggles), base metabolism, athletic conditioning, gender, intensity, and all that, but it's a good start. Figure that the actual number of calories you burn probably depends on the intensity.

    For example, the calculator says that a person on average would burn about 420 calories for an hour of competitive badminton (kudos to the calculator for differentiating between silly leisure badminton and competitive badminton). But I've seen data where one can burn 500 to 800 (for singles games) calories an hour.

    So how do you figure out intensity without a fancypants heart rate monitor (like Polar)? You can use perceived exertion. Try chatting during exercise. If you can still chat, that's low exertion; chat with gasping, medium; cannot say a word, high; blacking out, that's way too much.

    The website has a bunch of other calculators, so don't forget to scroll down and check them out.

    Monday, February 8, 2010

    Bedbugs: Non-emo vampires that like the dark and won't sparkle in sunlight

    Bedbugs give us the heebie-jeebies. These vampires were wiped out from the United States back in the day when people sprayed DDT on anything that scuttled or moved, including pesky coworkers and overly smelly men. But they (the bedbugs, not the smelly men, who—to the disappointment of women in that era—never disappeared) were reintroduced into the country when international travel became common.


    Photo: Visuals Unlimited / Corbis | Source: New York Daily News

    Like Jason in Friday the 13th, pesticide-resistent bed bugs are notoriously difficult to get rid of. If even a single female with eggs survive the extermination, you have another infestation in your hands. Temporarily moving out of your house won't help since a bedbug can survive for up to 18* months without food [ This is your cue to run to the showers screaming. ].

    The best way to deal with bedbugs is not get them in the first place. Here are a few precautions you should follow when you travel:
    • Before you book a hotel, check with the Bedbug Registry
    • When you arrive at the hotel, do not put your luggage and stuff on the bed. Put them on non-upholstered furniture (the luggage stand, for example) instead.
    • Do not lay your clothes in the drawer (bedbugs like wood, crevices, and protected areas). Instead, keep your stuff in your luggage or hang your clothes up in the closet. Keeping them in the bathroom works. 
    • Learn what bedbugs look like.  
    • Take out the bedsheets and check the mattresses (all of them, not just the one you are laying on) for signs of blood or bedbugs. Lift the mattress over your head to check for signs under the mattress. Carefully inspect the folds and creases of the mattress. Check the entire length of the fold around the mattress, both top and bottom. 
    • Check the headboards. Lift them off from their hinges and inspect the crevices. Headboards are unwieldy, so it's easier to work with another person, but one strong person can manage it.
    • Use a very bright headlamp (like the kind they sell in outdoor stores) while doing the inspection.
    Other tips:
    • Avoid used stuff. 
    • Be aware that they're not just in hotel rooms. They have been discovered  in offices, stores (Abercombie in New York had to close down for fumigation), theaters, trains, hospital waiting rooms, and gyms. No need to be paranoid, but just keep an eye out for itchy welts, so that you can take precautions (described next).   
    • If you discover itchy welts that you suspect are bedbug bites, take precautions before you return home. Heat will kill them. Bag all your clothes, wash them (including ones you didn't wear) and dry them in high heat (greater than 125 degrees Fahrenheit). Bag your luggage and leave them in the back of your car under the hot sun for at least a day. Once the infestation starts, the nightmare begins. 
    • See our article on spotting an existing infestation. 
    For a more thorough article, see the University of Kentucky: College of Agriculture site. 

    * This figure is based on older records about earlier infestations. Some reports recorded 12 months, which is still creepily long. The pesticide-resistent strain in our era might live to only 2 months without a bloodmeal. But still. Eww.   


    Sunday, July 12, 2009

    Applying sunscreen

    Instructions for applying sunscreen seems, well, unnecessary... afterall what does one need to know beyond: squirt into hands and apply all over exposed flesh? Well, the thing is, I've observed people apply too little with their expired SPF-12 lotion with no UV-A protection whatsoever (you know who you are). Why not just sprinkle yourself with chicken blood (or, if you are vegan, soy sauce) hoodoo? It's just as effective.

    Sun damage is cumulative, so it's best to minimize it. Here are three simple tips:
    • What to apply: Get broad-spectrum "sweatproof" sunscreen that protects you from both UV-A and UV-B rays. Not all sunscreens are created equal. In fact, the Environmental Working Group claims in its study that 4 out of 5 (84%) are ineffective or unsafe. For UV-A protection (against aging), look for zinc oxide, titanium oxide, avobenzone, or ecamsule in the ingredients. For UV-B protection (against burning), look for at least SPF 30.
      Costco sells Neutragena sunblock*—which claims to meet all criteria, plus it's non-comedogenic (won't block pores) and feels light on the skin—for a good price. If you'd rather use something else, you can check out a database of tested suncreen. And do keep an eye out on the expiration date.
    • When to apply: Apply 30 minutes before sun exposure, and reapply every few hours. Be OCD if you are fair-skinned.
    • How much to apply: You need an ounce of sunblock to cover your entire body (more if you are a big guy). An ounce is about 1/3 of a standard-sized Neutrogena tube. You need to apply half a teaspoon each for the face, neck, and arms; and a full teaspoon each for the chest, stomach, back, and legs. Don't forget your ears and the top of your shoulders!
    For some background on UV-A and UV-B, see the previous post. Physical protection, such as wide-brimmed hats work great, too, but don't forget about reflected radiation. Bah, just get a burqa. Maybe one made from reflective tin foil.

    * Neutrogena also contains oxybenzone, which a few animal and lab studies suggest might release free radicals and mildly affect hormone systems, however these studies did not show harm in sunscreen users. In any case, the risk of not applying sunscreen is many multiples worse (as assessed by the American Cancer Society)!

    If you're really creeped out by chemicals, you can use suncreen that contains inorganic particulates, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

    Saturday, July 4, 2009

    Sun damage while driving

    You still can get sun damage inside some cars. True, it's unlikley that you'll get a sunburn while driving, not even in long road trips, but incremental damage does happen and accummulates over the years.

    In most cars, the windshield is treated to filter out UV-A radiation, which accounts for wrinkling, but the side and the rear windows only partially filter out UV-B radiation, which darkens skin. So while you might not darken, you still get wrinkly and all. Boo! (But a few car models actually have better UV-A and UV-B protection).

    You can have the windows professionally treated to block out UV rays without tinting or affecting visibility. Incidentally, in California, all new automoblies are required by law to have heat-blocking (either by deflection or absorption) glass by 2012. This makes environmental sense since one will need less energy to cool the car.

    p.s. If you can never keep track of which one is UV-A and which one is UV-B, try this menmonic: UV-A causes skin Aging; UV-B causes skin Burning. Both types contribute to cancer.

    Saturday, May 30, 2009

    More on beans, the magical fruit

    Beans are good veggies for athletic folks or pips who just want to maintain their weight. Besides the abundant phytochemicals and antioxidants, they pack the most fiber and protein (half a cup = two ounces of meat and seafood) among our plant friends. All the fiber fills you up, so that should keep you from eyeing the dessert tray.

    If you're not that into beans, you can trick yourself by secretly adding them to your salad, salsa, ground-meat type stuff (like spaghetti sauces and sloppy joes). If you puree cooked beans, you can add them to your soups, stews, and sauces.

    See our sister blog to learn why the bean is also called the musical fruit. For more high-brow stuff on beans, see also our previous blabber.

    Sunday, February 22, 2009

    Go Row

    For warming up, the rowing machine gives the most bang for your time. In addition to getting your heart rate up and getting the blood going, it works most muscle groups in your body. (And if you are a swimmer, rowing is good training for your sport.)

    If your arms get tired too soon, change your technique. 
    • Push with your legs (you should feel the top part of your thighs working), and keep your arms extended as you glide back. 
    • When you reach the end of the movement, lean your torso back (without rounding your back) and pull the handle all the way towards your tummy. (For variation, you can pull the handle towards your chest instead of your tummy. This works a different part of your back.) 
    • When you complete the motion, return to the starting position. Slide as far forward as your flexibility will allow; don't return just midway. But don't go too far forward either, lest you strain your back.
    Try to complete the rowing stroke in one fluid motion, not in stilted steps. Start slow until you get the hang of things. Maintain your posture and never round your back.

    Oh piddlewinks, blahblahblah, just watch the video. It sounds complicated, but rowing is worth the rewards.

    p.s. Avoid the machine if it aggravates your shoulder and knee issues.
    p.p.s. Rowing is not weight-bearing, so be sure to supplement it with other activities that are.

    Friday, January 2, 2009

    H20 is the awesomest owie ointment

    The best treatment for a booboo is running water. You can also wash the surrounding skin with soap, but not the wound itself (soap can damage injured tissues, and so can soup, actually).

    What about the antiseptic juju in scientific looking brown bottles? Besides costing you money, they inflict more damage. Double booboo! Hiss!

    • Benzalkonium chloride? Not as bad as other antiseptics, but soap neutralizes it. And if the best thing you can say about a thing is "not as damaging as others...," you might as well use water.
    • Betadine? Better than iodine, but also slows down healing.
    • Chlorhexidine? Not as bad as other antispetics, but high concentrations can increase inflammation.
    • Hexachlorophene? Squashes enemy comabatants and civilians alike. Kills microbes and damages the skin.
    • Hexylresorcinol? Kills them bugs awright, but friendly fire also damages the skin
    • Hydrogen peroxide? Sorry, this one is bad for you, too. Damages the skin and slows healing. On the plus side, you get to use up the manly man Hello Kitty band-aid that you bought because they were on clearance.
    • Iodine? Like your neighbor's chihuahua, it's irritating and also slows down healing.
    • Mercurochrome? Tsk, tsk. Bad. See the "mercu-" in the name? That's why. Banned for a decade, so I'm not exactly sure why you would still have this. Dispose of it. But not down the toilet! Properly, please. Go to your nearest hazardous waste disposal center.
    • Merthiolate? Another genius product with mercury.
    • Mommy's kiss? Probably does nothing to your hurt spot, but devastating for your reputation as tough guy. 
    • Povidone iodine? See betadine. Or let me just save you the effort. Also not good.
    • Rubbing alcohol? Great for testing macho-hood and pain tolerance, but not so good for your hurties. It is indiscriminate about its killing. Microbes, skin cells, whatever. "Die! All Die!" sez the rubbing alcohol. It also dries out your skin and applies for subprime loans. However, cleaning needles and intact skin with it is OK.
    • Spit? Uh, no. Good for other stuff, tho. Deserves its own blog article!
    How about those antibiotic ointments? Bacitracin and neomycin could help with minor wounds, but some people are allergic to them.

    Sunday, December 28, 2008

    Bean, bean, the magical fruit

    A University of Toronto study showed that beans and nuts, which have low glycemic index, might be better than a whole-grain diet in controlling blood sugar. Extra bonus: a low-glycemic diet significantly boosted HDL (aka, the "good cholesterol") levels.

    The low-glycemic diet in the study included beans, peas, lentils, pasta, quickly boiled rice and certain breads, like pumpernickel and rye, as well as oatmeal and oat bran cereals.

    For meatier reading, see the New York Times article and the Journal of the American Medical Association. Both require you to login, but the NY Times is free.