Picking the best leek

Leeks are the thick-necked jock version of scallions. Europeans love them because they're milder and sweeter versions of onions. They're great with sauces, soups, and side dishes. Whatever works for onions works for leeks, too (except maybe in hamburgers and some types of sandwiches).

You can get them from farmers' markets from spring to fall (although the spring ones tend to be more slender). As with all vegetables, the fresher they are, the sweeter and more flavorful they are. Pick ones with vibrant leaves and a lot more white parts (which is what you use for cooking, although you can use the leaves for making stock).

Refrigerate in an open bag.