Keeping your indoor air clean with houseplants

From the Wall Street Journal

A growing body of global research is showing plants can reduce dust particles and contaminants, such as formaldehyde and benzene, that come from cigarette smoke, paint, furniture, building materials and other sources.

Six or more plants in a 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot house could achieve noteworthy contaminant reductions.

The hardest working filtering plants include:

• English Ivy
• Mother-in-Law's Tongue
• Weeping Fig
• Peace Lily
• Devil's Ivy
• Flamingo Flower
• Janet Craig
• Asparagus Fern

A superhero scrubs the air: the mighty houseplant

Reprinted form Wall Street Journal.

The humble houseplant is on the attack. Building on NASA experiments for air purification in space, scientists are pinpointing plant species—from the peace lily to the asparagus fern—that are particularly skillful at cleaning indoor air of pollutants that can cause a range of health problems.

A growing body of research suggests the humble houseplant boasts significant powers to clean the air in homes and other buildings of common toxins such as formaldehyde, ammonia & benzene. Wendy Bounds explains.

A growing body of global research is showing plants can reduce dust particles and contaminants, such as formaldehyde and benzene, that come from cigarette smoke, paint, furniture, building materials and other sources. Big growers such as Costa Farms, based in Goulds, Fla., and retailers Lowe's and Home Depot now sell plants with tags promoting their air-cleaning abilities.

"The advantage of plants is you can sometimes solve your problem with $100 of plants or propagate your own," says Stanley J. Kays, a horticulture professor at the University of Georgia, which is spearheading plant research with scientists in South Korea. In addition to studying existing plants, researchers there are trying to see if certain species could be bred to create super-efficient air cleaners.

Interest in plants as air purifiers—what's called "phytoremediation"—comes amid mounting concerns about the quality of indoor air. People spend more than 90% of their time inside, where levels of a dozen common organic pollutants can be two to five times higher than outside, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Associated health problems range from headaches and asthma to respiratory diseases and cancer. The agency says it is particularly concerned about air quality in homes that have taken steps to be more energy-efficient by adding insulation and other weatherization techniques.

That said, plants aren't yet recognized as a mainstream air-filtration tool. The EPA says "there is currently no evidence … that a reasonable number of houseplants can remove significant quantities of pollutants in homes and offices." The U.S. Green Building Council, which certifies buildings based on environmental standards, says while "using plants to help clean air is a great strategy…we've had difficulty quantifying the results."

That could be changing. Studies conducted over the past five years by the University of Technology, Sydney found that small groups of the Janet Craig and Sweet Chico plants placed in offices with high airborne concentrations of volatile organic compounds consistently reduced total VOC levels by up to 75%. Reductions to negligible levels were maintained over the course of five- to 12-week periods studied. "Potted plants can provide an efficient, self-regulating, low-cost, sustainable bioremediation system for indoor air pollution," researchers concluded.

In another study at Washington State University, dust was reduced as much as 20% when a number of plants were placed around the perimeter of computer lab and small office for one week.

Margaret Burchett, a professor who led the Sydney studies, estimates that six or more plants in a 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot house could achieve noteworthy contaminant reductions. At work, "if you have a couple of nice plants sitting on your desk, it will help purify the air you breathe," says Bill Wolverton, author of the new book "Plants: Why You Can't Live Without Them," and one of the NASA scientists who studied plants.

Indoor-air pollutants come in two primary forms: particle pollution, such as dust, pollen, animal dander and smoke, and gaseous pollutants such as VOCs that are emitted from sources such as building materials, dry-cleaned clothing and aerosol sprays.

Plants clean the air, researchers say, primarily by absorbing pollution through small leaf pores called stomata, and via microorganisms living in the potting soil or medium that metabolize contaminants. Scientists believe plants can begin removing pollution the moment they're placed in a room and can be particularly useful in spaces where there's little outside ventilation.

Pinpointing specific air quality problems can be tricky. Do-it-yourself kits and environmental companies can conduct air-quality tests at consumers' homes. But interpretation of the results can be confusing because there's no universal national standard for acceptable levels of many VOCs, according to the EPA.

As for remedies, ventilation often works best, but not every climate is suitable for open windows and doors. Mechanical ventilation units that remove stale air from a home and provide fresh outdoor air can cost $600 to upwards of $2,500, not including installation. Indoor air-cleaning devices using HEPA and activated carbon or ultraviolet-light technology have some limitations and may require filter changes.

That's why researchers see opportunity for indoor plants, which are inexpensive and relatively easy to find and maintain. In 2009, UGA scientists identified five "super ornamentals"—plants that showed high rates of contaminant removal when exposed in gas-tight glass jars to common household VOCs, such as benzene (present in cigarette smoke) and toluene (emitted from paints and varnishes). They are: the purple waffle plant, English ivy, asparagus fern, purple heart plant, variegated wax plant.

Kendrick Brinson/LUCEO for The Wall Street Journal"

At the University of Georgia's campus in Griffin, Ga., professors Bodie Pennisi, right, and Mussie Habteselassie, look at a microorganism in the soil of an asparagus fern that metabolizes benzene.

Kendrick Brinson/LUCEO for The Wall Street Journal"

Plants are studied in a lab at the university.

UGA's Dr. Kays and his colleagues aim to broaden their findings by developing a simple test kit homeowners can use to check for VOCs, as well as an expanded list of plants and their associated pollution-fighting abilities. The university also sees a potential market for enhanced potting soil and other media.

"I envision this research helping producers enrich plants' soil with microorganisms that are optimized to metabolize, say, five bad VOCs," says Bodie Pennisi, a UGA associate professor.

Plants were sidelined as minimalist architecture prevailed in recent years, says Mike Lewis, president of the not-for-profit Green Plants for Green Buildings advocacy group. "Now when you talk to architects and designers, they want plants back."

When designing the new Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital in Michigan, the hospital's CEO Gerard van Grinsven says he placed $150,000 of live plants in the atria of the facility. "The plants are doing what they are supposed to do—produce oxygen and filtering all these bad elements from our environment," Mr. van Grinsven says.

International plant grower Costa Farms LLC, has spent more than $1 million in the past two years on its "O2 for You" marketing campaign touting plants' air-purifying abilities. In its Michigan store, Planterra Corp. touts plants as "low-maintenance air cleaners."

Dr. Wolverton, who continued his plant research after leaving NASA, has helped develop a $199 planter dubbed the "Plant Air Purifier," which uses an electric fan and activated carbon in a ceramic growing medium (no soil) to filter and trap pollutants around plants' roots more efficiently so microbes can metabolize them. It goes on sale in April. A similar product, the Andrea Air Filter, was co-developed by a Harvard University professor and has sold 8,000 units since its launch two years ago.

Norman Ankers, a 54-year-old trial lawyer in Beverly Hills, Mich., says he and his wife Janet have filled their 5,000-square-foot home with plants, such as ferns and orchids. "We don't pretend to understand the complex chemistry of it all," Mr. Ankers says. "But having something that's a cleaning agent or filter is an extra benefit."

Write to Gwendolyn Bounds at wendy.bounds@wsj.com

Minimizing loss in a burglary

Based on Vanguard.

To minimize losses, do the following:

• Document your valuables, such as jewelry.
  Because jewelry can be so easily lost or stolen, a standard homeowners policy has limited coverage for jewelry—typically $1,000 to $1,500, according to the Insurance Information Institute.  
• Documented your newer pieces.
  For supplementary insurance to be in force, jewelry must be both appraised and reported to the insurance agent, according to the Insurance Information Institute. So if you received a valuable piece of jewelry this Christmas, keep the sales receipt or appraisal provided by the jeweler and contact your insurance agent to add it to the list of insured items on your policy.
• Divide up your valuables.
  Don't keep everything in one place, such as a jewelry box. That makes things easy for a thief to close the lid and steal everything in just seconds. 
• Keep costume jewelry in the jewelry box, and hide more valuable pieces somewhere else.
  Keep your most valuable pieces in a bank safety deposit box, and take them out only when you want to wear them for special occasions.
• Keep family keepsakes out of the jewelry box.
  The keepsakes winds up in the burglar's haul because they were kept in the jewelry box. They likely would have been left behind had they been kept in a sock drawer or old shoebox.

What to do in a burglary

From the San Jose Police Department.


If you come home to find an unexplained open/broken window or door:

• Do not enter - the perpetrator may still be inside.
• Use a neighbor's phone to call police.
• Do not touch anything or clean up until the police have inspected for evidence.
• Write down the license plate numbers of any suspicious vehicles.
• Note the descriptions of any suspicious persons.

Preventing home burglaries

From: The San Jose Police Department.

The Burglary Basics

• The MOST important thing YOU can do is CALL THE POLICE to report a CRIME or any SUSPICIOUS activity. You have to be the eyes of your neighborhood. And remember you can always remain a pair of anonymous eyes!
• Light up your residence, lock your doors at all times, and call the Police when you see something suspicious.

Home

• Make your home look occupied, and make it difficult to break in.
• Lock all outside doors and windows before you leave the house or go to bed. Even if it is for a short time, lock your doors.
• Leave lights on when you go out. If you are going to be away for a length of time, connect some lamps to automatic timers to turn them on in the evening and off during the day.
• Keep your garage door closed and locked.
• Don't allow daily deliveries of mail, newspapers or flyers build up while you are away. Arrange with the Post Office to hold your mail, or arrange for a friend or neighbor to take them regularly.
• Arrange for your lawn to be mowed if you are going away for an extended time.
• Check your locks on doors and windows and replace them with secure devices as necessary.
• Pushbutton locks on doorknobs are easy for burglars to open. Install deadbolt locks on all your outside doors.
• Sliding glass doors are vulnerable. Special locks are available for better security.
• Other windows may need better locks. Check with a locksmith or hardware store for alternatives.

Don't Tempt a Thief

• Lawn mowers, barbecues and bicycles are best stored out of sight
• Always lock your garden sheds and garages.
• Use curtains on garage and basement windows.
• Never leave notes on your door such as “Gone shopping.”

Locks…Get the Best

• No lock, regardless of its quality, can be truly effective. Key-in dead bolt locks provide minimum security. Ask a locksmith for advice on your situation.
• Change locks immediately if your keys are lost or stolen.
• When moving into a new home, have all locks changed.

Targeting the Outside

• Have adequate exterior lighting. A motion-sensitive light is recommended for backyards.
• Trim trees and shrubs so that they cannot be used as hiding places for intruders.
• Make sure your door hinges are on the inside.

Windows

• Most windows can be pinned for security.
• Drill a 3/16" hole on a slight downward slant through the inside window frame and halfway into the outside frame - place a nail in the hole to secure the window.

Alarms

• An alarm system is excellent for home security. It provides peace of mind to homeowners, especially while on vacation. There is a wide variety of alarm systems on the market.
• Make several inquiries to different companies for the best security system available to you.
• If you have a home alarm system, use it! Activate your alarm system — Alarm systems are only useful when you remember to activate them.
• Many individuals have alarm systems but do not arm them because it is inconvenient. Many burglars know this and will not be deterred by a window sticker or sign indicating that the home has an alarm system.

Other precautions you should take

• Never leave keys under doormats, flowerpots, mailboxes or other “secret” hiding places -- burglars know where to look for hidden keys.
• Keep a detailed inventory of your valuable possessions, including a description of the items, date of purchase and original value, and serial numbers, and keep a copy in a safe place away from home — this is a good precaution in case of fires or other disasters. Make a photographic or video record of valuable objects, heirlooms and antiques. Your insurance company can provide assistance in making and keeping your inventory.
• Trim your shrubbery around your home to reduce cover for burglars.
• Be a good neighbor. If you notice anything suspicious in your neighborhood, call 9-1-1 immediately.
• Mark your valuables with your driver's license number with an engraver you can borrow from your precinct. Marked items are harder for a burglar to dispose of and easier for police to recover.
• Form a Neighborhood Watch Group. We can help you work with your neighbors to improve security and reduce risk of burglary.
• Consider installing a burglar alarm system.

Making your own household cleaners

From Consumer Reports:

Homemade household cleaners: best recipes 1/11

With some simple, reliable recipes and clean, empty containers, you can make your own less-toxic cleaners right at home using familiar household ingredients. The following is a list of basic ingredients, along with their common cleaning uses.

Basic cleaning ingredients

Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). This mild alkali powder can be used for a variety of household cleaning purposes, such as removing stains from tile, glass, oven doors, and china; cleaning the inside of refrigerators; helping to absorb odors; and removing baked-on food from pans. It also acts as a stain remover for fruit juices and other mild acids.

Borax. A powder or crystalline salt sold in most grocery stores, borax is a water softener and sanitizer. It makes an excellent freshener when added to laundry and is an all-around deodorizer.

Castile soap. A mild soap available in liquid or bar form that can be used for general-purpose cleaning. It was once made from olive oil, but now may include other vegetable oils as well.

Cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate). This common baking ingredient is a mild acid that can be used as a sink and bathtub stain remover. It can also be used to remove spots from aluminum cookware.

Hydrogen peroxide. A mild alternative to chlorine bleach that can be used for stain removal and mild bleaching and killing germs. Available in drug stores and supermarkets.

Lemon juice. This familiar ingredient can be used to lighten stains and cut grease. It can also be used to remove tarnish can be used on brass, copper, bronze and aluminum (not to be used on silver).

Washing soda (carbonate of soda). A stronger alternative to baking soda, washing soda can be used as a water softener in conjunction with laundry detergents (gloves are recommended as it may irritate skin; not to be used with silks, woolens or vinyl).

White vinegar. Good for a variety of household cleaning tasks, vinegar may be used to help kill germs and deodorize, remove some carpet stains, and clean coffeemakers, chrome, cookware, and countertops. It can also be used to unclog drains. Note that while white vinegar has a slight scent while wet, when dry, it leaves no odor. However, don’t use it on acetate fabrics, such as in some tablecloths, because it can dissolve the fibers.

Homemade recipes

You can make your own cleaners from the ingredients listed above. The recipes below are adapted from Recipes for Safer Cleaners, published by the nonprofit group, Healthy Child Healthy World. (Please note that Consumer Reports has not tested these recipes.)

Kitchen:

•Countertops. For a "soft scrub," mix baking soda and liquid soap until you get a consistency you like. The amounts don’t have to be perfect. Make only as much as you need, as it dries up quickly.

•Ovens. To clean extra-greasy ovens, mix together 1 cup baking soda and 1/4 cup of washing soda, then add enough water to make a paste; apply the paste to oven surfaces and let soak overnight. The next morning, lift off soda mixture and grime; rinse surfaces well (gloves are recommended as washing soda may irritate skin).

•Microwave ovens. These can be cleaned with a paste made from 3 to 4 tablespoons of baking soda mixed with water. Scrub on with a sponge and rinse.

•Cutting boards. Sanitize them by spraying with vinegar and then with 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Keep the liquids in separate spray bottles and use them one at a time. It doesn’t matter which one you use first, but both together are much more effective than either one alone.

Bathrooms:

•Tub and tile cleaner. Mix 1 2/3 cup baking soda, 1/2 cup liquid soap, and 1/2 cup water. Then, as the last step, add 2 tablespoons vinegar (if you add the vinegar too early it will react with the baking soda). Immediately apply, wipe, and scrub.

•A good all-purpose sanitizer. 2 teaspoons borax, 4 tablespoons vinegar, and 3 to 4 cups hot water in a spray bottle. For extra cleaning power, add 1/4 teaspoon liquid soap to the mixture.

•Toilet bowl. Pour 1 cup of borax into the toilet before going to bed. In the morning, scrub and flush. For an extra-strength cleaner, add 1/4 cup vinegar to the borax.

•Drains. Prevent clogged drains by using hair and food traps. To de-grease and sweeten sink and tub drains, pour 1/2 cup of baking soda down drain, followed by 1 cup vinegar; let bubble for 15 minutes; rinse with hot water. You might have to repeat the procedure more than once or leave the baking soda and vinegar to “cook” overnight.

Livingroom:

•General dusting. Best done with a damp cloth: Dry dusting simply stirs up dust and moves it around.

•Furniture polish. Mix olive oil and vinegar in a one-to-one ratio and polish with a soft cloth. Or look in a health-food store for food-grade linseed oil, often called omega-3 or flaxseed oil, rather than the type found in hardware stores to finish furniture. Linseed oil sold for furniture use often contains dangerous petroleum distillates to speed evaporation.

•Windows. Put 3 tablespoons vinegar per 1 quart water in a spray bottle. Some recommend using half vinegar and half water. For extra-dirty windows try this: 1/2 teaspoon liquid soap, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 2 cups of water. Shake well. The best way to get streak-free windows--use newspaper instead of paper towels to wipe them.

Metal polish:

•Brass, copper, bronze and aluminum. To remove tarnish, rub metal with sliced lemons. For tough jobs, sprinkle baking soda on the lemon, then rub.

•Sterling silver. Put a sheet of aluminum foil into a plastic or glass bowl. Sprinkle the foil with salt and baking soda, then fill the bowl with warm water. Soak your silver in the bowl, and the tarnish will migrate to the aluminum foil. Rinse and dry the silver, then buff it with a soft cloth.

Air freshener:

•A simple recipe of 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon vinegar (or lemon juice), and 2 cups hot water in a spray bottle can be sprayed in the air to remove odors.

Floors and carpets:

•Linoleum. For extra grease-cutting, try this formula: 1/4 cup washing soda with 1 tablespoon of liquid soap, 1/4 cup vinegar, and 2 gallons hot water. Put the washing soda in the bucket first and add the liquid ingredients; that way the soda won’t splash out. Caution: Do not use this formula on waxed floors.

•Sanitize floors. Add 2 gallons of hot water to 1/2 cup of borax. Put the borax in the bucket first, then add water slowly to avoid splashing.

•Wood floors. Add 1 cup of vinegar per pail of hot water.

•Carpeting and rugs. To soak up and eliminate odors, sprinkle baking soda over the surface of the carpet and let it stand for 15 to 30 minutes before vacuuming.

Laundry:

•Laundry brightener. Add 1/2 cup of strained lemon juice during the rinse cycle.

•Fabric rinse. Add 1/4 cup of white vinegar during the washing machine’s rinse cycle to remove detergent completely from clothes, eliminating that scratchy feel. (Note: This will not leave your clothes smelling like vinegar.)

•Detergent booster. To reduce the amount of laundry detergent you need to use (especially if you have hard water), add baking soda or washing soda. These minerals soften the water, which increases the detergent’s power. For liquid detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda at the beginning of the wash. For powdered detergent, add 1/2 cup of soda during the rinse cycle.

•Bleach. Use hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine bleach.

•Dry cleaning. Many delicate "dry clean only" items can be washed at home by hand. In general, it’s best to use cool water and a mild liquid soap. Squeeze or wring gently and lay flat to dry.

Mold:

•Use a stiff brush, a non-ammonia detergent, and hot water to scrub mold off nonporous surfaces. Use a stiff-bristle toothbrush to get between tiles. You can also use a paste of baking soda and water. Don’t rinse. And remember to wear gloves and a protective mask, since mold spores can be inhaled.

Toxic household chemicals

From Consumer Reports:

Avoid harmful ingredients whenever possible. Certain chemicals found in cleaning products can pose health and/or environmental risks. To minimize these risks and to choose the best cleaners for your household, avoid the ingredients listed below. ( Note: this is not an exhaustive list and additional ingredients may be added as they come to light.)

• Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs). When they’re released into the environment, these chemicals can break down into toxic substances that can act as hormone disrupters, potentially threatening the reproductive capacity of fish, birds, and mammals.Found in many cleaning products, especially detergents, stain removers, citrus cleaners, and disinfectants.
  
• Antibacterials. Some antibacterial ingredients may cause skin and eye irritation, and certain types, such as triclosan, now found widely in the environment, may cause environmental harm by contributing to the emergence of antibiotic resistant bacteria. Some studies have also suggested that triclosan could form dioxin, a carcinogen, in the presence of sunlight, and chloroform, a probable human carcinogen, in the presence of chlorinated water. What’s more, there’s a growing consensus that antibacterial household cleaners won’t keep you any safer from infectious illnesses than regular types. These findings may stem in part from the fact that most infections are caused by viruses, not bacteria. In fact, experts say, it’s not the type of cleaner that matters in combating germs, but the frequency and thoroughness of cleaning; plain soap and hot water are generally enough to do the job. Found in a variety of household cleaners; many products that carry the “antibacterial” label are actually disinfectants (see disinfectants below).
  
• Ammonia. Poisonous when swallowed, extremely irritating to respiratory passages when inhaled; can burn skin on contact. (Note: Never mix ammonia-containing products with chlorine bleach. That produces a poisonous gas.) Found in floor, bathroom, tile, and glass cleaners.
  
• Butyl cellosolve (also known as butyl glycol, ethylene glycol, monobutyl).Poisonous when swallowed and a lung tissue irritant. Found in glass cleaners and all-purpose cleaners.
  
• Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite). Extremely irritating to the lungs and eyes. (Note: Never mix chlorine bleach products with ammonia. That produces a poisonous gas.) Sold by itself and found in a variety of household cleaners.
  
• d-limonene. Can irritate the skin. Found in air fresheners.
  
• Diethanolamine (DEA) & triethanolamine (TEA). These ingredients can produce carcinogenic compounds, which can penetrate the skin when combined with nitrosomes, an often-undisclosed preservative or contaminant. Some products are labeled "DEA-free" or "TEA-free", which are considered to be somewhat meaningful labels by CU. Found in sudsing products, including detergents and cleaners.
  
• Disinfectants. This is a catchall term for a variety of active ingredients, including chlorine bleach, alcohol, quaternary compounds, and pine oil and ethyl alcohol. They are regulated by the EPA as pesticides and all have some health effects. Most can also cause problems in waterways by killing helpful bacteria. Found in a variety of household cleaners; many products that carry the “antibacterial” label are also disinfectants.
  
• Fragrances. May cause water eyes and respiratory tract irriation. Some products are labeled "fragrance free", which CU does not consider to be a meaningful label. Found in a variety of cleaners and air fresheners.
  
• Hydrochloric acid. Can severely burn skin, irritate eyes and respiratory tract. Found in toilet bowl cleaners.
  
• Naptha. Can cause headaches, nausea, and central-nervous-system symptoms with overexposure. Found in furniture and floor polish and glass cleaners.
  
• Petroleum-based ingredients. Many ingredients are derived from petroleum, including some of those above such as APEs and naptha, and they’re commonly found in many cleaning products as surfactants. Other toxic ingredients derived from petroleum, including formaldehyde, can also be present at trace levels in cleaning products. Found in a variety of household cleaners.
  
• Phosphates. Can reach waterways and contribute to the overgrowth of algae and aquatic weeds, which can kill off fish populations and other aquatic life. Some products are labeled "phosphate-free", which is considered to be a somewhat meaningful label by CU. Found in automatic dishwasher detergents and some laundry detergents.
  
• Sodium hydroxide (lye). Corrosive and extremely irritating to eyes, nose, and throat and can burn those tissues on contact. Found in drain, metal, and oven cleaners.
  
• Sulfuric acid. Can severely damage eyes, lungs, and skin. Found in drain cleaners.

Garden chores for autumn

Here's the task list for fall.

• Plant spring bulbs, shrubs, and trees.
• Plant salad crops 4-6 weeks before the first frost.
• Rail against the end of summer!

Questions to ask references for building contractors

It's best to hire contractors recommended by other people. Ask your friends, neighbors, and co-workers. Some companies have mailing lists or discussion boards about contractors. Try that first.

Before you hire a contractor to do significant changes to your house, you should ask at least three of his or her former clients about his work. He should be able to give you names upon request.

It seems like an overkill, but be diligent about checking references. We avoided hiring terrible contractors and a lot of pain because of diligent checking and friend's comments. Yes, Virginia, people will lie to you to get your money.

So what do you ask the references? The following are questions recommended by the National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI):

1. Could you communicate well with the remodeler?
2. Were you pleased with the quality of work?
   This is a tough question, however, since everyone defines "quality" differently. It is much better to ask to see the completed project to determine the level of quality for yourself.
3. Were you satisfied with the remodeler's business practices?
4. Did the crew show up on time?
5. Were you comfortable with the trades people the remodeler subcontracted to?
6. Was the job completed on schedule?
7. Did the remodeler fulfill his or her contract?
8. Did the contractor stay in touch throughout the project?
9. Were the final details finished in a timely manner?
10. Would you use the remodeler again without hesitation?
11. Was the job site kept clean during the project?
12. Was the remodeler professional, ethical, honest and fair throughout the process?
13. Did the remodeler manage the overall project and process in such a way to ensure your satisfaction?
14. Did any issues arise during the project? How did the remodeler handle them?

Building a bedbug detector for under $20

If you think you might have bedbug infestation (you have insect bites that are arrayed in a row or cluster), you can create a MacGyver trap that is just as good as the ones used by professionals. You cannot exterminate the bugs with this method, but you could detect them and contact exterminators.

The folks are Rutgers University experimented with various homemade contraptions until they built a trap superior to the ones used by exterminators for detecting an infestation. (They presented at the 2009 meeting of the Entomological Society of America)

Here are the stuff you'll need:

• Plastic food and water dish for cats (or a similar plastic bowl with smooth lining)
• Insulated 1/3 galloon jug sold in camping-supply or sports stores (Yay! to another excuse to visit REI!)
• 2.5 lbs of dry ice (~$1/lb). The dry ice is the bait. The CO2, which is mistaken as human breath, lures the bloodsuckers. 
• Gloves (because you should never handle dry ice with your bare hands!)
• Sandpaper
• Talcum powder
• Tape

Build the contraption with the following steps:

1. Put on gloves and place 2.5 lbs of dry ice pellets inside the insulated jug. 
2. Leave the spout open to let the CO2 evaporate. It should seep out completely in 11 hours at room temperature and no faster.
   If the CO2 is seeping out too rapidly, partially cover the spout. 
3. Overturn the food dish, scuff the outer rim with sandpaper to give the bloodsuckers better traction. 
4. Create a paper ramp on the food dish by taping the sandpaper (or other pieces of paper) to the dish. 
5. Make the inside of the food dish even more slippery by dusting it with talcum powder.
   Once the bedbugs get into the moat, they can't scuttle out of the steep, slippery rim. Bwahaha! 
6. Place the bait, which is the thermos/insualted jug with dry ice, in the middle of the overturned food dish.